Tasting Notes: Mongolia(2)

"I'm going to order a bottle of vodka and meat dumplings for the table; after that you are on your own," said Dorj, our host in Ulaan Baator. Dorj had not been happy when we told him we wanted to try Mongolian food. "It's nothing but greasy meat and flour," he grumbled. So this was his way of washing his hands off the matter: beyond the vodka and dumplings, he was not prepared to vouch for anything.

I perused the menu. Several varieties of "energy soup" jumped out at me: soups made from various organs of sheep and goat, rich with red blood cells alleged to impart said energy. I thought of my foodie failure with the sea cucumbers a few nights before, and resolved to have more guts this time. I opted for a soup featuring intestine, kidneys and liver. "Less Energy Soup," it was called. This was in contrast to the more robust "Energy Soup," which had all of the above plus lung and brain. I guess there were limits as to how far I could tap my inner Mongolian. For the main course, we chose mutton ribs and spine -- a dish serving 2-4 people. 


Buuz -- steamed dumplings

 By now the dumplings and vodka had arrived. Dorj had ordered two types: steamed dumplings, called buuz, and fried ones, called khuushuur. The steamed ones, he explained, were eaten in winter, typically around new year celebrations. These could be frozen by the hundreds, and easily reheated to serve to guests. The fried ones -- bearing a strong resemblance to large empanadas -- were better eaten fresh, and were more popular in summer when they are sold at street stands. The heat of the just-fried kuushuur on the finger tips is good for circulation of the blood, he explained.

Khuushuur -- fried dumplings

Such good choices! I loved them both, especially the khuushuur, which were indeed piping hot, just the right amount of greasy, and filled with wonderfully spiced meat. Buuz were good too, the steamed meat bathing in its own gravy inside a small dumpling sealed with a top knot. I was a bit taken aback by the vodka -- a whole bottle of Chinggis Khaan Black Label had arrived for the four of us. "Don't worry," said Dorj.

I was so much enjoying this portion of the meal that I sort of wished we had left it at that. I was in heaven with what we had going. The  soup, when it arrived, was okay; certainly nothing I couldn't stomach.  It was sort of watery though, bits of organ floating in a thin broth. I helped myself to more dumplings. Dorj poured another round of vodka.

Then came the main course. It quickly became evident why this was a dish for 2-4 people. This was no serving of individual ribs with a side of spine: the ribs of the sheep were still attached to their respective vertabrae. Basically, the entire upper half of the carcass had been plonked on a big platter. As advertised, it came covered in broad noodles and a generous amount of steamed vegetables.

So we dug in, even Dorj. "Not as greasy as I thought," he proclaimed. He looked quite sheepish at the small salad he had ordered for himself.  I enjoyed the ribs too -- anyone who has eaten with me knows how I love to eat meat off the bone. But despite Dorj's pronouncement, it was a little heavy, so I was glad when he poured another round of vodka to help it down.

For those who are thinking that this menu must have been designed for tourists, I should note that this was low tourist season and we were probably the only foreigners in the place. But perhaps the Mongolians think of it as a sort of Disneyland rather than anything to do with themselves. At least three of the tables were there to celebrate children's birthday parties. To mark the occasion, the lights would be dimmed, a recorded version of "Happy Birthday" in English would be played, and a troupe of waitresses dressed in full Mongolian costume would accompany the song with tambourines and other percussion instruments. Remembering these scenes still makes me smile.

By night's end, all the dumplings were gone, a mess of bones was left on the platter, and the vodka bottle was drained.  Dorj had been right: the dumplings were the best thing, and there had been no need to worry about the full bottle of Chinggis being too much. Always listen to your host.

For travelers: if it's dumplings you're after, there is no need to go to a "Mongolian restaurant". The streets of Ulaan Baatar are strewn with Khaan Buuz -- small shops serving steamed dumplings -- and in summer no doubt it will be hard to avoid street peddlers selling khuushuur. Also, do avoid the Chinese restaurant in the Chinggis Khaan Hotel. It's obscenely overpriced. For vegetarians, try the broccoli soup at the shabby-chic Italian restaurant called Veranda: thick and green, this was Dorj's choice when left to his own devices.

Tasting Notes: Mongolia

Yes, I'm on the road again. That means more little snippets rather than full blown posts -- like this one from a Chinese restaurant in Mongolia. One whole page of the menu was devoted to the "sea cucumber". I had no idea what the sea cucumber was, and estimated that the non-English speaking staff would not be able to help me out. So, I passed. Yeah, sue me for being a foodie failure, if you wish. Does being feeble of mind on my first day here count as a defense?

As it turned out, wikipedia has made me both regretful and thankful that I missed this opportunity. On the one hand it tells us: "There are a number of dishes made with sea cucumber as this ingredient is expected to have a strong cultural emphasis on health."  But in the next sentence: "In most dishes, the sea cucumber has a slippery texture.".

And here is their picture to prove it:

Anybody out there with knowledge of the sea cucumber? Worth braving?

For the full wikipedia entry, click here

Astor Mediterranean: More Cheapish Eats in Adams Morgan

When spring teased us with its gentle airs a few weeks ago, Adams Morgan merchants lost no time in setting up their sidewalk tables. That's when I took this happy shot:

My favorite dish at Astor's is the beef souvlaki sandwich, with its generous chunks of perfectly grilled sirloin. This is not fast food, even though you have to order at the counter. The meat is cooked to order and takes about 15 minutes to prepare. It's worth the wait, though. There have been times when I have been weak with hunger, temper on a short fuse after a long day at work, yet willed myself to wait patiently, as nothing else would do. On the other hand, since Astor's does a brisk trade in take out (and you may actually prefer to take your food home, as the place is a little lacking in ambience), with better planning I could have called ahead and had my sandwich ready to be picked up.

A tip: the sandwich comes with tahini and feta cheese, which completely masks the fine taste of the sirloin. I suggest asking for these toppings on the side, or skipping them altogether. 

And an observation: given that Astor's is primarily about Mediterranean food, the pizza seems remarkably popular. There are invariably people there to pick up their pizzas-to-go and from what I can see at the tables, it does look really good.

One day I will have to give it a try...if I can get past the souvlaki.

Dish To Die For: beef souvlaki sandwich

Mamma 'Zu: Richmond Bucket List #2*

Mamma 'Zu and Svomama's Mamma

Sometimes, I can get irrational. On one of our weekends apart, Chris called me from Richmond to say: "You'll never guess where mom wants to go eat -- Mamma 'Zu!"  For those of you following this blog, you'll know that I have been working on Chris for us to go out to eat when we are in Richmond. Mamma 'Zu is one of those places I have been dying to try, and so the idea that Chris'  mother would get there before me induced a fit of pique.

Once I had recovered my senses, I suggested that all three of us go the next time I was down for the weekend. And so we did: me, and Svomama (aka Chris) and Svomama's mamma. It was good to have her along, too. Of the three of us, Svomama's mamma was the most animated by the crush of people inside the restaurant, and did not mind having a drink or two at the bar while waiting to be seated. "It's a happening," she said, enjoying the fact that the dim lighting and lack of windows made the place seem like a night spot, even though it was only 6 pm.

 

Not everyone feels the same about the cheek by jowl intimacy in this tiny dining room.  We were lucky enough to get seats at the bar, but behind us were three layers of people jammed between the barstools and the tables. Our friend Lynn refuses to go to Mamma Zu's. "I had an ass on my table," she exclaimed, describing her experience there. "Really, is this what goes down here, I said to myself, an ass on my table?"

What about the food? I was pleasantly surprised by the fried oysters, fried so lightly that the bivalves inside retained their moist brininess. Mamma 'Zu's sister restaurant, Edo's Squid, uses a similar technique for their fried sugar toads (blow fish), which have also surprised me with their flavorful flakiness inside a delicate casing. But otherwise, the meal was disappointing. Someone in the kitchen had gone wild with the pepper pot that night.

But I will give Mamma Zu's a pass, and try again another time. After all...

...can this many people AND Ruth Reichl be wrong?

To Die For: Reputation

*Note: As a result of "On Fumes Alone", Chris created a "Bucket List" of Richmond restaurants for us to visit. This is the second of such visits. For a full list of visits, click here

Pasta Mia & Mixtec: (almost) Cheap Eats in Adams Morgan

At 5pm, one person is already in line for Pasta Mia. 90 minutes til opening time.
Mixtec is right next door.

Last Saturday, we were refugees from Pasta Mia. We'd arrived there at around 6:10 to find that a sizeable line had already formed, waiting for the 6:30 opening. This is a nightly occurence -- at any given time starting at around 5pm Tuesday thru Saturday, there will inevitably be a line outside Pasta Mia, which takes no reservations. When we did not make the first cut, we decamped to the small Mexican restaurant next door: Mixtec.

I had been to Mixtec several times before -- it being a neighborhoody place, and I being of said neighborhood. I've never had a bad meal there, and have especially enjoyed their satisfying heuvos rancheros and their very generously endowed, full impact, margaritas. But still, it has never been a place I have particularly recommended to others.

On this night, though, there was a list of specials. I don't remember there being specials before, so maybe it is a Saturday evening thing. In any case, there was this Oaxacan lamb on the menu. Wow. The lamb came served on a banana leaf, a no frills cut of meat, just slow cooked and juicy, homestyle and thick slabbed. (banish any thought of foo-foo french cut racks, if you please). In addition to the lamb, the dish came piled with rice and beans, salsa, and a beautifully rosetted red onion, plus a side of salad. Given how substantial the platter was, not to mention the high rents in Adams Morgan, I consider $16 to be a pretty good price, though it may not fall within everybody's definition of cheap eats. The pitcher of margaritas -- also $16 -- compares well with $27 at Lauriol Plaza, for a far less potent brew.

Perhaps the meal was most remarkable for what it did NOT include. Our friend Christopher -- who ordered the pork loin off the specials menu -- could not stop talking about the fact that chips did not automatically arrive at the table (we applauded) and that none of our meals included cheese (more applause). This is a far cry from the stereotypical Mexican food normally presented to us norteamericanos. "If only we had more of these type of Mexican restaurants," he kept exclaiming, even into the next day. For me, I left feeling like I could eat there every night -- this was more of a delicious home cooked meal than a richly sauced dining experience, one that has left me hankering for more.

As for Pasta Mia, the first two times I ate there were well worth the hour-long wait, I thought. Excellent and cheap pasta and ditto for the wine. But the second two visits were somewhat disappointing. Since then, the prices have risen, and with its price edge gone, it has become less compelling. Still it is a cute little space, and I think it is worth a try, so long as you are of the "will wait for food" persuasion. Otherwise, I think Mixtec is worth considering as a first choice for cheap eats in Adams Morgan. Others seem to agree: Of Urbanspoon voters, 92% like Mixtec; Pasta Mia only has an 80% approval rating.

6:00 pm. The line has grown. 30 more minutes to opening time

Dishes To Die For: Oaxacan lamb (Mixtec); pasta with meat sauce (Pasta Mia)
















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Casa Nonna

Dishes To Die For: octopus salad, "The Nonna" pizza

Splat! went the flat end of a chef's knife, crushing an ear of garlic. This was the first step in composing the exquisite grilled octopus salad at Casa Nonna. Next, the greens, the sundried tomatoes, and carefully sliced charred tentacles. At the end, Oraniz gently adjusted the elements with the back end of a fork, coaxing them into position. Such care and expertise!

This close up view of appetizers being prepared is what you get sitting up at the counter of the pizza ovens at this still fairly new Italian. The octopus salad is my dish to die for here, but sitting at the counter is also a feast for the eyes. The flash and flare of 800 degree pizza ovens against burnished copper and enameled tile. The delicacy of Oraniz' compositions and the masterfulness of Ishmael parrying and thrusting into the flames. Also the curve of the bar, inviting guests to take a seat. (Be warned though: it's hot! Come dressed in layers that can be peeled off once you are in this haven from the February chill.)

But that's not all. You can also have Casa Nonna in your casa: the entire dinner menu is available for delivery. We had the "Nonna" pizza: zucchini flowers, fried egg, tomato and mozzarella. This was extraordinary: a thin crust pizza with fresh ingredients that do not cower under a blanket of cheese. The zucchini flowers were sensational, augmented by basil scented olive oil. I had felt ambivalent about the fried eggs, but they were tiny and delicate, runny yolks blending with the basil scent in a way I could never have predicted. Oooh. We also sampled the eggplant parmigiana -- up there with the best home made parmigiana I have tasted -- and meatballs in tomato sauce, which Chris declared to be close to what her own Italian nonna made. I have to admit, I was almost brought to tears by them too.

So, we are two for two with Casa Nonna, and looking forward to more winning meals.

Photo credits: Chris Svoboda

Edo's Squid: Richmond Bucket List #1*

Dish To Die For: pasta

Something happened to me when I went to Edo's Squid that had never happened to me before. When the pasta arrived, I stuck my fork in, put my head down like a horse into a feeder bag, and didn't lift it up again until the bowl was empty. I kept twirling and savoring, twirling and savoring. All around me, the table was littered with other dishes to sample, but none of them mattered. I simply could not stop eating that pasta. It's not that the marinara sauce was that great -- in fact I helped it along by adding some garlic from a nearby side of greens -- but it was the perfect texture of the spaghetti and the just-right way the sauce clung to it that blinded me to the rest of the offerings.

Perhaps I was just escaping from a fraught evening. Between Lynn talking up the place for months, and Chris dragging her feet about coming ("It's not an environment in which I enjoy eating," she primly announced), I really did not know what to expect. What was wrong with this picture? Why would the normally good natured Chris be so bad-tempered about this place, and the more opinionated Lynn claim it was the best restaurant in Richmond?

Here is my theory: Edo's once was a very good restaurant, with a charming ambience and a creative and carefully executed menu. But it has not been able to cope with the resultant popularity. From the chaotic milling of people (with or without reservations)  waiting for tables, to the frantic slapping down of plates by the waitstaff, whatever delights are proferred by the kitchen are overshadowed by anxiety. And one senses that the kitchen is overwrought as well. True, the pasta was perfect, and I also want to give a shout out to the sugar toads. But you could tell by the other dishes that the kitchen was losing its grip back there.

Edo's has its long time customer base, but I believe that these loyalists are fuelled by nostalgia for a restaurant that is not quite as it used to be. Bluntly speaking: it is past its peak. Perhaps its former glory can be regained by better management of reservations, which will both take the anxiety out of being seated and take the pressure off the kitchen and waitstaff. I hope so. Otherwise, it is going to be difficult to persuade Chris to go back. And I so want more of that divine pasta...

*Note: As a result of "On Fumes Alone", Chris created a "Bucket List" of Richmond restaurants for us to visit. This is the first of such visits. For a full list of visits click here.